I poked around settings, searched the interwebs, vocalized exasperation, etc.
Finally downloaded UT Tweak Tool and found the right setting. (All is right in the world)

I feel I need to bring some attention to the failed internet search.
It's a little Ironic that the only results I got were from Ubuntu's stack exchange site from six years ago.
Especially when there's at least one post here (albeit only tangentially topical) which details the correct setting.

Should UBports take over the Ubuntu Touch topic on stack exchange?
Is there something we could be doing to make this forum more SEO visible?
I feel this discussion is important for promoting usability and adoption.